Saturday, October 8, 2016

Steel Crazy

Tara and I have been hearing a lot about a climb at the top of Mt Lemmon called Steel Crazy.  It is a 4-pitch 5.9.  We decided to check it out over Labor Day weekend.  On our first attempt, we failed because we forgot the rope in Tucson.  We ended up finding some climbers who were willing to share ropes with us at the local gnarly spot: Orifice Wall.  These climbs are well beyond our ability level, but the hard parts are at the top so, we climbs as high as we could and then lowered off of the permadraws.

We made it back on Monday, and this time brought our rope!  The first pitch has some fairly scary roof moves, so it took us a while.  For added spice, one of the bolt hangers after a frightening step to the left had decided to fall off.  This was the last bolt for a while, so moving past it and up to the next bolt involved some unwanted run-out.
Tara was not super stoked on the first pitch, but eventually got through it.


After battling the first pitch, Tara was still up for leading the second pitch.  This is one of the best 5.9 pitches I have ever climbed.  It is fairly sustained, steep, with holds just when you need them as well as a few truly tricky moves.
Tara put in a magnificent lead on the second pitch.


The third pitch was also nice, but not quite as steep.  To compensate for the decrease it climbing angle, nature also decreased the size of the holds.  Typical!  The last pitch leads to a nice Mt. Lemmon summit.
Nearing the top of the third.

Summit!




We got up there late, and were done before dinner.  We packed a picnic that morning, and enjoyed a picnic in the cool evening air at 8,000 ft.  

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